if you're cheaping out, go with an amd build. an intel build will cost you more this one was good in February. never get something just because the internet tells you so. testing shows hitatchi/hgst are the most reliable brand of HDD, followed by western digital and seagate, in that order. if you get an SSD, samsung is awesome but you can also go with the crucial SSDs. avoid the shiz outta kingston.

Pick the parts and get someone to build it for you. There's a few sites here that offer pretty good prebuilds - none for around that price, though.

Go onto pcpartpicker.com that site will help you build at your price point. That said building is very easy (as intimidating as it may seem), if you know how cartridge based games work, how to plug things in and how to turn a screwdriver then you can do it.

Honestly? Cough up a little more dough for building a PC. You wanna have something for the long run. Something that will last 4-5 years before your next upgrade. PC gaming is awesome, but unfortunately it can be expensive. I'm guessing when you say 500, you mean $500? And build your PC. Its not as hard as it looks. There's loads of guides on YouTube or google Toms Hardware, that site is like a gold mine!

That PC is pretty craptacular. Pre-builts in general are usually not a good idea: they're overpriced, they're underpowered (literally so in the case of some power supplies, which puts the rest of your parts in danger), you have no freedom involved in the process, and when one part inevitably breaks or becomes outdated you'll have to learn how to swap it out anyway. The only real concerns you should have are as to motherboard compatibility and power supply necessity. The latter is really only a concern from a monetary standpoint, since you can't have a power supply rated too high (though too low is certainly possible). Just learn to read the specs and you'll be fine. Everything is fairly modular. Take [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132118]this random-ass motherboard[/url] for example. It's CPU socket is LGA 1150, meaning it needs a processor from Intel's Haswell series. Processors will be labeled with their respective socket types, and since products tend to be manufactured in their latest iterations you really won't have to worry about getting the wrong kind of socket (provided you don't do something totally idiotic like try to cram an AMD chip in an intel board). Stick to an i5 if you're buying intel, since i7's main advantage of hyperthreading doesn't come into play in much other than video editing, 3D modelling, or PS2 emulation. I confess that I don't know much about AMD's lineup, so I can't make a suggestion there. It has 4 slots for RAM. Compatible speeds are listed (1600 or 1333 are the most common though so that's really not going to be a concern for the most part), 32 gigs are supported at max (and there's really no reason for more than 8 for the time being unless you heavily use virtual machines, or do professional video editing or 3D modelling). RAM is RAM for the most part. Increased speeds typically do not mean much. Just make sure that you get the right kind because the transition from DDR3 to DDR4 is happening soon (if not already); for our purposes, all you have to know is that DDR3 and DDR4 have 240 and 288 pins respectively, and that they are neither forward nor backward compatible. It has a few different PCIE ports, 2 3.0x16, 1 2.0x16, and 2. Bandwidth is the difference between 2.0 and 3.0, though I can't contextualize this since I'm not certain myself as to how important that is. You probably won't have to worry about that though, as PCIE expansion ports are no longer as necessary as they once were thanks to on-board USB and on-board sound cards. Don't stress too much about x16 or x1 or whatever else there may be, since smaller devices (such as a x1) will fit into a x16 if you really wanted to do that for some reason, so don't worry. Chances are you won't be using anything that small though; the only strictly necessary PCIE device for PC gaming is a graphics card, though I also do have an internal capture card which is a x1 device. PCI is obsolete and I have no freaking clue why they still include so many on motherboards; I understand that legacy devices exist, but my (admittedly cheap) mobo has more of them than it has PCIE! But I digress. It has 4 SATA ports (which is admittedly a little on the low side, my cheap board has 6). SATA is what you're going to be using for storage devices, such as SSDs, HDDs, CD/DVD drives, and any sort of multi card reader you may wish to use. SATA 3.2 is the latest revision, but don't expect to see much of that for a little while. It doesn't matter for the most part, since there exists no hard drive that can saturate SATA 3.0. Solid state drives are getting there, and while this board has a SATA Express connector, the standard is still new and in turmoil over its viability. Really, I wouldn't worry about that. I've read that it's compatible with SATA though, so I suppose that bumps your total to 6 ports. The primary difference between SSDs and HDDs is a lack of moving parts in the former which as a result increases its speed and reliability. If you can afford it, you may wish to invest in both and keep your OS installed in the SSD and your games, etc installed on the HDD. And that's about it. Truth be told, I don't use half of the connectors I have, I wouldn't even begin to look at the ones that one has. Short of USB, audio in and out, and power buttons, there's not a whole lot you even need. SPDIF? I don't even know what the hell that IS. Everything else is fairly modular though, so there's no right or wrong build so long as the parts are compatible. A good place to start getting ideas is [url=http://www.logicalincrements.com/]Logical Increments[/url], but remember to never buy something just because some guy on the internet said so. Edit: I forgot the case, but that's mainly an aesthetic concern. Some cases offer more front USB ports, or cable management, but a case is a case in general.

This is a sub 500 dollar PC that on the PC Master Race subreddit, I cant say how good it is, but it sure is better than that thing you posted. Though

My tip: be willing to spend 1000 dollars A good graphics card would be Nvidia gtx 750 ti I used an old power supply and a pair of old ramsticks Core I5 Intel cpu WD black 1tb hard drive Pny 100 gb ssd If you want to save money on an operating system, get someone to download steam OS on a flash drive and look up a video tutorial on how to set it up. Hope this helps

Sorry, you can't build a gaming PC with equivalent stats to a PS4/XB1 for $500. Should have a $700 budget at least.

Oh god no. That PC is way overpriced.

Yes! Get that Borg-Q! I love mine!