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12/27/2012 6:49:38 PM
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PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ Corsair 300R $50 ]

[quote][/quote] [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=72304145]Original Thread[/url] [b]Current Sales:[/b] [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139011]Corsair 300R[/url], $50 [url=http://www.frys.com/product/7253043]Corsair HX650[/url] $72 [quote][/quote][quote][/quote] [b]Table of Contents:[/b] 1) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341]Building a PC[/url] 2) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528353]Getting started with Windows; Software, Programs, Optimizations[/url] 3) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528358]Audio General; Speakers, Headphones, Souncards[/url] 4) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528366]Audio General; Continued[/url] 5) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528374]Useful Links and Builds of Other Members[/url] [quote][/quote][quote][/quote] [b]Building a PC:[/b] Taken from Cystic. If he would like, I'll type my own section. [quote]After you've gathered all your parts, I'm assuming you're going to wonder what to do with all these wires. It's a pretty simple process, Of course, and we start with the case and the psu, or if you want, the motherboard, as long as either of them are put in first, it doesn't matter. [b][u]1. Fitting the PSU[/u][/b] [i]If you want to fit the motherboard first, go to step 2 then back to step 1.[/i] Open your case up, and look for a corner that looks like it will fit a PSU in it. It should be pretty obvious, if it already isn't, there should be four or 6 mounting screw holes for the PSU, and possibly parts built into the case to keep it into place. Just slot your PSU into there and screw in the appropriate screws. [b][u]2. Motherboard [/u][/b] Your case should already have a couple of mounting screws on the side, and it's pretty straightforward to see where the motherboard belongs and how it fits in the system. The IO shield (there should be a rectangular shaped hole in the back of your PC) should pop right into the back of your case. An IO shield should look something like [url=http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/144/images/6ioshield.JPG]this[/url]. After popping in the IO shield, check your motherboard box for [url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Toennchen_IMGP5029_wp.jpg]standoffs[/url] (they come in plastic too) and screw them into the case's motherboard mounting holes, then just place the motherboard over the standoffs with the inputs that align to the IO shield (as long as your IO shield isn't upside down), and then screw the motherboard into the standoffs with the provided screws. If a screw won't go in or slightly flexes the motherboard, it might be recommended to leave this screw out, just as long as your motherboard is secure and you're not having problems with fitting upgrades in the PCI slots (we'll come to those later) the motherboard won't mind having a few screws missing if it doesn't look like it's going to be moving or rattling inside the case. [b][u]3. The Processor[/u][/b] In your motherboard, there should be a socket that looks either like [url=http://www.hardcore-hardware.com/images/news/lga-2011-computex/ASUS%20DB%206%20-%20Socket%202.JPG]this[/url] (Newer Intel) or [url=http://techreport.com/r.x/socket-am3/socket-am3.jpg]this[/url] (Newer AMD), or something similar. It is very important that your socket number matches the motherboard's specifications, e.g LGA 1155 will only work with an LGA 1155 motherboard, even if an LGA 1136 looks like it's going to fit. For AMD, you'll find that they're more versatile in sockets, however, anyone can tell you that you should only vouch for AMD given that you are under a tight budget or are building a computer for relatively basic tasks. Anyway, you should see a latch on the side of the socket. Lift up the latch, (and if there's a pin protection plate, most likely on Intel motherboards remove it but do not damage it, you may need it later for RMAs.) and place the processor carefully onto the socket (try avoiding contact with the pins, there should be a small indicator such as a small triangle on the CPU and the motherboard showing which way the processor should be placed) then carefully slot the cpu into place, making sure it's in, and then you want to close the lid (for intel processors) and then press the latch down firmly and secure it. [b][u]4. The PCI expansions[/u][/b] On your motherboard, there should be a couple of PCI expansion slots, [url=http://www.naplestech.com/shopcart/images/pc_slots.gif]in their respective sizes.[/url] Now depending on the type of graphics card you buy, it should tell you which slot it goes in. Now, you start off by seeing which back plates the PCI slot is aligned to on the case, and you can begin by unscrewing the plate. You will want to do this with the case lying flat. In some cases for larger, or more powerful cards, they will use 2 of these back plates and you will need to unscrew more than one. Some PCI slots come with security latches that secure the card in place, and it should make a clicking sound when you plug the card into the slot. After the card is in place, you can use the screws you've taken out of the back panel to secure the card into the case, so that it stays there. This applies to other PCI slot accessories, e.g more USB slots, PCI wireless cards, capture cards, etc. [b][u]5. The Optical Drive/Blu-Ray Drive/SD Card reader etc.[/u][/b] Now these are very easy to install, inside the front half of your case, there should be a few slots for whichever peripherals you choose to install. Remove the front panel dust shield/filters (if you have any) for the slot you want your drive to take. Where the dust shield is removed, just slot in the drive and it should not stick out of the front panel, nor should it be pushed inward too much. After the necessary adjustments, you will see holes for screws in the side of the drive bays - you want to secure the drive in place firmly, but not too tightly, just until the screw's turning becomes slightly difficult to turn. [b][u]6. Hard Drive[/u][/b] You should see underneath where your disc drive is supposed to be {unless it's some sort of obscure case), there should be a mounting area for HDDs similar to the disc drive bays, now for some cases, you may get easy-install options, such as NZXT's clip-on and slide in. You can also purchase 2.5-3.5 inch conversion cases for your 2.5" HDD if you want to move over data from a laptop or an mATX desktop. Installation should be straight forward and very similar to the disc drives, you should have no problem installing it. Again, you only have to make sure it's secure, not tighten it to oblivion. [b][u]7. Wiring and Cable Management[/u][/b] ([i]Skip the first paragraph if you don't want to use cable management, it saves the hassle afterwards[/i]) If you have a modular PSU, only plug in the power cables you need, and for non-modular PSUs, just keep the spare wires away from the main airflow pats of the machine, you can use zip-ties and bunch them up behind the PC's back panel (if it has one) or just keep them away from the fans. First, place all of the components inside the case, including the PSU, but keep the cables outside the case. First, take the 24-pin motherboard power cable and put it through the opening closest to the PSU. Run this behind the motherboard and out the hole closest to the 24-pin motherboard connector. Do the same with the 8-pin CPU connector. This is the only cable which might not be long enough, in which case you will need one of [url=http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-8-Inch-8-Pin-Extension-EPS8EXT/dp/B000M802RG]these[/url]. Once those cables are in, you'll want to attach the SATA cables to the optical drive, HDD, and any SSD's you might have. You can either run these through the same hole as the 24-pin, or a closer hole. I generally like to use the same [url=http://www.proits-it.com/Support/skills/Photos/eSATA_TypA.jpg]SATA A[/url] cable for my HDD and optical. If needed, you can lower the position of the optical drive so that the cable will reach, or even raise your hard drives. Make sure that when you are routing these cables that they do NOT overlap on the other cables that you already have, otherwise you will not be able to easily put your side panel back on. Connect the front panel cords that are attached to your case to the bottom of the motherboard. I generally like to keep them low to the case so that they can go under the other cords and out the hole where the PSU is. You can also route them through the hole under where you inserted the 24-pin, provided you have a case with enough rubber grommets. Although I do not advise it, some builders cut off the AC97 cable that is attached to the HD Audio cable (HD > AC97) so that they have a more clean look. After this, all that's left are the GPU cables and molex cables for fans. These are pretty self-explanatory. Just remember to not overlap cords. If you don't have twist ties, you can go to your local grocery store and grab some of those green twist ties in the produce section. You also might have some that came with your PC components. I'll post my build with labels once my H100 comes back from Corsair.[/quote] [url=http://imgur.com/a/oqpHx]Infographics[/url] (NSFW on the mousepad image). [Edited on 01.06.2013 1:24 PM PST]
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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 Would I be bottlenecking my system if I got a GTX 680 to go along with my AMD FX 4100 Quad Core @ 3.60 GhZ? I also have 8 GB RAM, and a GTX 560 TI GPU ATM. With a 850W PSU[/quote]The bulldozer CPUs don't perform well with games, but it still wouldn't be the worst. If you wanted to upgrade you would want a 8320 or 6300. And don't get a 680, you would get a much better price:performance ratio out of a 7970 or a 670 FTW. But the 7970 outperforms even the 680 and it's $400.[/quote] Thanks. The 670 FTW does look good compared to the 680 and much better on the price. Now if I get the 8320 CPU would I be able to buy it and upgrade the CPU without upgrading anything else? (Other than my GPU of course) And I'm not planning to OC the CPU so the stock cooling would be ok with it?[/quote]You have an AM3+ board, right?[/quote] Sorry double post [Edited on 01.05.2013 8:45 PM PST]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 Would I be bottlenecking my system if I got a GTX 680 to go along with my AMD FX 4100 Quad Core @ 3.60 GhZ? I also have 8 GB RAM, and a GTX 560 TI GPU ATM. With a 850W PSU[/quote]The bulldozer CPUs don't perform well with games, but it still wouldn't be the worst. If you wanted to upgrade you would want a 8320 or 6300. And don't get a 680, you would get a much better price:performance ratio out of a 7970 or a 670 FTW. But the 7970 outperforms even the 680 and it's $400.[/quote] Thanks. The 670 FTW does look good compared to the 680 and much better on the price. Now if I get the 8320 CPU would I be able to buy it and upgrade the CPU without upgrading anything else? (Other than my GPU of course) And I'm not planning to OC the CPU so the stock cooling would be ok with it?[/quote]You have an AM3+ board, right?[/quote] Yeah I do, but also I was thinking, for money wise ATM, I should probably get the GPU first before the CPU as an upgrade that'll at least push my FPS for the time being until I can afford the CPU, correct?

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 Would I be bottlenecking my system if I got a GTX 680 to go along with my AMD FX 4100 Quad Core @ 3.60 GhZ? I also have 8 GB RAM, and a GTX 560 TI GPU ATM. With a 850W PSU[/quote]The bulldozer CPUs don't perform well with games, but it still wouldn't be the worst. If you wanted to upgrade you would want a 8320 or 6300. And don't get a 680, you would get a much better price:performance ratio out of a 7970 or a 670 FTW. But the 7970 outperforms even the 680 and it's $400.[/quote] Thanks. The 670 FTW does look good compared to the 680 and much better on the price. Now if I get the 8320 CPU would I be able to buy it and upgrade the CPU without upgrading anything else? (Other than my GPU of course) And I'm not planning to OC the CPU so the stock cooling would be ok with it?[/quote]You have an AM3+ board, right?

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Dragondude80 WHY HASN'T THIS BEEN STICKIED YET!!? [/quote] Thread needs to be saved enough, that's how those threads got up there.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Dragondude80 WHY HASN'T THIS BEEN STICKIED YET!!? [/quote] Save the thread!

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  • WHY HASN'T THIS BEEN STICKIED YET!!?

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] cheezytacos1 Would I be bottlenecking my system if I got a GTX 680 to go along with my AMD FX 4100 Quad Core @ 3.60 GhZ? I also have 8 GB RAM, and a GTX 560 TI GPU ATM. With a 850W PSU[/quote]The bulldozer CPUs don't perform well with games, but it still wouldn't be the worst. If you wanted to upgrade you would want a 8320 or 6300. And don't get a 680, you would get a much better price:performance ratio out of a 7970 or a 670 FTW. But the 7970 outperforms even the 680 and it's $400.[/quote] Thanks. The 670 FTW does look good compared to the 680 and much better on the price. Now if I get the 8320 CPU would I be able to buy it and upgrade the CPU without upgrading anything else? (Other than my GPU of course) And I'm not planning to OC the CPU so the stock cooling would be ok with it?

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  • What about macro keys? Usually gaming keyboards have those. But I can't seem to find any use for them if I can get a keyboard with those keys.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] ThirstyAvenge [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Jet Lockheed [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Ronaldinho 2010 I have also heard that gaming keyboards are for looks and comfort only.[/quote] Pretty much If you have a strong keystroke and bottom out keys on a membrane/dome, it won't really make a difference. They sell NKRO mechs that aren't deemed "gaming" keyboards, so there really ain't anything exclusive to gaming keyboard that you can't get on an expensive "regular" one. So yeah, besides the ergonormic designs and mini LCD screens and what have you, virtually no difference in gaming or otherwise.[/quote] The SteelSeries 6GV2 looks as plain as it can be but it has NKRO and is mechanical. It also has good build quality.[/quote] what I'm saying is that there are no differences in "Gaming" and "regular" keyboards as far as looks and comfort goes. Both "types" can have mechanical, both types can have NKRO, you can buy both but the only real differences are pretty much what Ronaldinho said.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] SuicidalSplatter Crysis sucks, the only thing good about it is the graphics.[/quote] I liked it. But that's only because I was having a whale of a time with the console commands.

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  • I think Warhead is pretty good.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Pride [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] SuicidalSplatter Crysis sucks, the only thing good about it is the graphics.[/quote]Single player is ok. The multiplayer is not fun.[/quote] The first Crysis only gets good when you encounter the aliens, about 3/4 through the game, after you've exited their hive thing.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] SuicidalSplatter Crysis sucks, the only thing good about it is the graphics.[/quote]Single player is ok. The multiplayer is not fun.

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  • Crysis sucks, the only thing good about it is the graphics.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Jet Lockheed [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Ronaldinho 2010 I have also heard that gaming keyboards are for looks and comfort only.[/quote] Pretty much If you have a strong keystroke and bottom out keys on a membrane/dome, it won't really make a difference. They sell NKRO mechs that aren't deemed "gaming" keyboards, so there really ain't anything exclusive to gaming keyboard that you can't get on an expensive "regular" one. So yeah, besides the ergonormic designs and mini LCD screens and what have you, virtually no difference in gaming or otherwise.[/quote] The SteelSeries 6GV2 looks as plain as it can be but it has NKRO and is mechanical. It also has good build quality. I laughed when I skimmed through comments on reviews for the keyboard when people equate it to some crappy Dell keyboard without actually knowing it's mechanical. Also the Crysis Collection is $9.99. [Edited on 01.05.2013 4:55 PM PST]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Ronaldinho 2010 I have also heard that gaming keyboards are for looks and comfort only.[/quote] Pretty much If you have a strong keystroke and bottom out keys on a membrane/dome, it won't really make a difference. They sell NKRO mechs that aren't deemed "gaming" keyboards, so there really ain't anything exclusive to gaming keyboard that you can't get on an expensive "regular" one. So yeah, besides the ergonormic designs and mini LCD screens and what have you, virtually no difference in gaming or otherwise.

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  • These are the results I got from doing an experiment for a class of mine: [url]http://imgur.com/a/eIweD[/url] (but this doesn't mean you should skimp out on your PSU, always get at least 520W for a single GPU build. Also, I haven't tested it while gaming. Going to try it out on BF3 soon)

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] SuicidalSplatter [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] TopWargamer [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] XxJakeMasterxX [url=http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=MTI2NTk]Phoronix is leaning towards E3[/url], but you never know.[/quote] I'd be fine with an E3 reveal....and maybe a little Half-Life 3 to go along with it? [/quote] So uh... Would everything be on the Steam store, games wise, I mean? Also, would any games developed for the Steam console be put onto the PC Steam store?[/quote] So i'm assuming. If it'll be on the Steam Box....it'll be on the Steam store....seeing that, again...assuming, the Steam Box will be using the Steam store.....just it can only access the Linux section of the store.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Ronaldinho 2010 Quick question, I have a beefy gaming rig but I'm wondering if I should get a gaming mouse. Do they actually improve performance, and like, is it worth it? If so, I'm thinking of getting the R.A.T 5 at bestbuy for 65$ I have also heard that gaming keyboards are for looks and comfort only.[/quote]For the most part, stay away from products that are flashy about being advertised to gamers. One of the best mice is the logitech G400, because of it's superior censor. It's cheap too, so go for that one. As for keyboards, you'll want a mechanical. Don't buy any razer products. Good, cheap ones like the Cooler Master Quick Fire boards go from $60-$80. There are also Rosewill, Das, Ducky and Filco for you to look into.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Ronaldinho 2010 Quick question, I have a beefy gaming rig but I'm wondering if I should get a gaming mouse. Do they actually improve performance, and like, is it worth it? If so, I'm thinking of getting the R.A.T 5 at bestbuy for 65$ I have also heard that gaming keyboards are for looks and comfort only.[/quote] [url=http://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/optical-gaming-mouse-g400?crid=7]I'd recommend this mouse, it's what I use, and it's known for having great precision.[/url] That's pretty much correct about the keyboards. I guess some people may find them useful if they play a lot of MMOs and stuff because I know some keyboards come with extra keys for those games. If you want a good keyboard though, get a mechanical keyboard with either brown or red switches.

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  • Quick question, I have a beefy gaming rig but I'm wondering if I should get a gaming mouse. Do they actually improve performance, and like, is it worth it? If so, I'm thinking of getting the R.A.T 5 at bestbuy for 65$ I have also heard that gaming keyboards are for looks and comfort only.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] TopWargamer [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] XxJakeMasterxX [url=http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=MTI2NTk]Phoronix is leaning towards E3[/url], but you never know.[/quote] I'd be fine with an E3 reveal....and maybe a little Half-Life 3 to go along with it? [/quote] So uh... Would everything be on the Steam store, games wise, I mean? Also, would any games developed for the Steam console be put onto the PC Steam store?

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Mr Pinata Should I keep trying to find a way to fit them both in, or is it alright if I forgo that back plate?[/quote] You really don't want to leave the backplate off of the case since if the motherboard can directly touch the case it could short out (the backplate prevents this). When you put the backplate on, does it stay on without you holding it? If not, you might not be positioning it properly, but it also shouldn't matter if you apply a little force to the get the board to line up properly. [Edited on 01.05.2013 12:57 PM PST]

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  • So I'm currently putting together my computer and I was about half way finished when I realized I had forgot to put the backplate on that has the holes for the usb ports, hdmi, speaker, mic, et cetera on. So I go and undo all the work I did only to find out that when the that back plate is on the motherboard doesn't really sit very well onto the standoff pegs. Now I could force it into position and then screw in the screws to hold it, however I'm worried that keeping it held in that position will eventually cause damage from the stress it's being given. Should I keep trying to find a way to fit them both in, or is it alright if I forgo that back plate?

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  • lol

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] XxJakeMasterxX [url=http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=news_item&px=MTI2NTk]Phoronix is leaning towards E3[/url], but you never know.[/quote] I'd be fine with an E3 reveal....and maybe a little Half-Life 3 to go along with it?

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