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12/27/2012 6:49:38 PM
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PC Building Guide and FAQ of The Flood v2.0 [ Corsair 300R $50 ]

[quote][/quote] [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=72304145]Original Thread[/url] [b]Current Sales:[/b] [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139011]Corsair 300R[/url], $50 [url=http://www.frys.com/product/7253043]Corsair HX650[/url] $72 [quote][/quote][quote][/quote] [b]Table of Contents:[/b] 1) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341]Building a PC[/url] 2) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528353]Getting started with Windows; Software, Programs, Optimizations[/url] 3) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528358]Audio General; Speakers, Headphones, Souncards[/url] 4) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528366]Audio General; Continued[/url] 5) [url=http://www.bungie.net/Forums/posts.aspx?postID=76528341&postRepeater1-p=1#76528374]Useful Links and Builds of Other Members[/url] [quote][/quote][quote][/quote] [b]Building a PC:[/b] Taken from Cystic. If he would like, I'll type my own section. [quote]After you've gathered all your parts, I'm assuming you're going to wonder what to do with all these wires. It's a pretty simple process, Of course, and we start with the case and the psu, or if you want, the motherboard, as long as either of them are put in first, it doesn't matter. [b][u]1. Fitting the PSU[/u][/b] [i]If you want to fit the motherboard first, go to step 2 then back to step 1.[/i] Open your case up, and look for a corner that looks like it will fit a PSU in it. It should be pretty obvious, if it already isn't, there should be four or 6 mounting screw holes for the PSU, and possibly parts built into the case to keep it into place. Just slot your PSU into there and screw in the appropriate screws. [b][u]2. Motherboard [/u][/b] Your case should already have a couple of mounting screws on the side, and it's pretty straightforward to see where the motherboard belongs and how it fits in the system. The IO shield (there should be a rectangular shaped hole in the back of your PC) should pop right into the back of your case. An IO shield should look something like [url=http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/144/images/6ioshield.JPG]this[/url]. After popping in the IO shield, check your motherboard box for [url=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Toennchen_IMGP5029_wp.jpg]standoffs[/url] (they come in plastic too) and screw them into the case's motherboard mounting holes, then just place the motherboard over the standoffs with the inputs that align to the IO shield (as long as your IO shield isn't upside down), and then screw the motherboard into the standoffs with the provided screws. If a screw won't go in or slightly flexes the motherboard, it might be recommended to leave this screw out, just as long as your motherboard is secure and you're not having problems with fitting upgrades in the PCI slots (we'll come to those later) the motherboard won't mind having a few screws missing if it doesn't look like it's going to be moving or rattling inside the case. [b][u]3. The Processor[/u][/b] In your motherboard, there should be a socket that looks either like [url=http://www.hardcore-hardware.com/images/news/lga-2011-computex/ASUS%20DB%206%20-%20Socket%202.JPG]this[/url] (Newer Intel) or [url=http://techreport.com/r.x/socket-am3/socket-am3.jpg]this[/url] (Newer AMD), or something similar. It is very important that your socket number matches the motherboard's specifications, e.g LGA 1155 will only work with an LGA 1155 motherboard, even if an LGA 1136 looks like it's going to fit. For AMD, you'll find that they're more versatile in sockets, however, anyone can tell you that you should only vouch for AMD given that you are under a tight budget or are building a computer for relatively basic tasks. Anyway, you should see a latch on the side of the socket. Lift up the latch, (and if there's a pin protection plate, most likely on Intel motherboards remove it but do not damage it, you may need it later for RMAs.) and place the processor carefully onto the socket (try avoiding contact with the pins, there should be a small indicator such as a small triangle on the CPU and the motherboard showing which way the processor should be placed) then carefully slot the cpu into place, making sure it's in, and then you want to close the lid (for intel processors) and then press the latch down firmly and secure it. [b][u]4. The PCI expansions[/u][/b] On your motherboard, there should be a couple of PCI expansion slots, [url=http://www.naplestech.com/shopcart/images/pc_slots.gif]in their respective sizes.[/url] Now depending on the type of graphics card you buy, it should tell you which slot it goes in. Now, you start off by seeing which back plates the PCI slot is aligned to on the case, and you can begin by unscrewing the plate. You will want to do this with the case lying flat. In some cases for larger, or more powerful cards, they will use 2 of these back plates and you will need to unscrew more than one. Some PCI slots come with security latches that secure the card in place, and it should make a clicking sound when you plug the card into the slot. After the card is in place, you can use the screws you've taken out of the back panel to secure the card into the case, so that it stays there. This applies to other PCI slot accessories, e.g more USB slots, PCI wireless cards, capture cards, etc. [b][u]5. The Optical Drive/Blu-Ray Drive/SD Card reader etc.[/u][/b] Now these are very easy to install, inside the front half of your case, there should be a few slots for whichever peripherals you choose to install. Remove the front panel dust shield/filters (if you have any) for the slot you want your drive to take. Where the dust shield is removed, just slot in the drive and it should not stick out of the front panel, nor should it be pushed inward too much. After the necessary adjustments, you will see holes for screws in the side of the drive bays - you want to secure the drive in place firmly, but not too tightly, just until the screw's turning becomes slightly difficult to turn. [b][u]6. Hard Drive[/u][/b] You should see underneath where your disc drive is supposed to be {unless it's some sort of obscure case), there should be a mounting area for HDDs similar to the disc drive bays, now for some cases, you may get easy-install options, such as NZXT's clip-on and slide in. You can also purchase 2.5-3.5 inch conversion cases for your 2.5" HDD if you want to move over data from a laptop or an mATX desktop. Installation should be straight forward and very similar to the disc drives, you should have no problem installing it. Again, you only have to make sure it's secure, not tighten it to oblivion. [b][u]7. Wiring and Cable Management[/u][/b] ([i]Skip the first paragraph if you don't want to use cable management, it saves the hassle afterwards[/i]) If you have a modular PSU, only plug in the power cables you need, and for non-modular PSUs, just keep the spare wires away from the main airflow pats of the machine, you can use zip-ties and bunch them up behind the PC's back panel (if it has one) or just keep them away from the fans. First, place all of the components inside the case, including the PSU, but keep the cables outside the case. First, take the 24-pin motherboard power cable and put it through the opening closest to the PSU. Run this behind the motherboard and out the hole closest to the 24-pin motherboard connector. Do the same with the 8-pin CPU connector. This is the only cable which might not be long enough, in which case you will need one of [url=http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-8-Inch-8-Pin-Extension-EPS8EXT/dp/B000M802RG]these[/url]. Once those cables are in, you'll want to attach the SATA cables to the optical drive, HDD, and any SSD's you might have. You can either run these through the same hole as the 24-pin, or a closer hole. I generally like to use the same [url=http://www.proits-it.com/Support/skills/Photos/eSATA_TypA.jpg]SATA A[/url] cable for my HDD and optical. If needed, you can lower the position of the optical drive so that the cable will reach, or even raise your hard drives. Make sure that when you are routing these cables that they do NOT overlap on the other cables that you already have, otherwise you will not be able to easily put your side panel back on. Connect the front panel cords that are attached to your case to the bottom of the motherboard. I generally like to keep them low to the case so that they can go under the other cords and out the hole where the PSU is. You can also route them through the hole under where you inserted the 24-pin, provided you have a case with enough rubber grommets. Although I do not advise it, some builders cut off the AC97 cable that is attached to the HD Audio cable (HD > AC97) so that they have a more clean look. After this, all that's left are the GPU cables and molex cables for fans. These are pretty self-explanatory. Just remember to not overlap cords. If you don't have twist ties, you can go to your local grocery store and grab some of those green twist ties in the produce section. You also might have some that came with your PC components. I'll post my build with labels once my H100 comes back from Corsair.[/quote] [url=http://imgur.com/a/oqpHx]Infographics[/url] (NSFW on the mousepad image). [Edited on 01.06.2013 1:24 PM PST]
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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] ABotelho I was just wondering something. Why does everybody still have CD drives? Installing Windows with a usb stick is incredibly easy. Personally, I haven't used a DVD/CD drive in months or even years. Are so many of you guys actually regularly using your DVD drives?[/quote]I use mine to rip ISO's of Windows to give to my friends since I can just let them keep the CD as opposed to keeping a USB stick, rip CD files to my computer (for FLAC music or if it's a montage related to school or something), and for playing old games like Diablo or Star Wars Tie Fighter vs. X-Wing. I definitely use it less than once a week though. [Edited on 01.06.2013 7:42 PM PST]

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  • I was just wondering something. Why does everybody still have DVD drives? Installing Windows with a usb stick is incredibly easy. Personally, I haven't used a DVD/CD drive in months or even years. Are so many of you guys actually regularly using your DVD drives? [Edited on 01.06.2013 7:40 PM PST]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy Salty, [url=http://i.imgur.com/CsUOf.jpg]you might want to get these instead.[/url][/quote]Are stax headphones portable too? would they work on my iPod?

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  • Salty, [url=http://i.imgur.com/CsUOf.jpg]you might want to get these instead.[/url]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] HHIBZ1 [quote]I would recommend putting a decent amount into the motherboard, but spending more than $150 is really unnecessary. The processor you have is fine, and get a Seasonic PSU, but don't blow all of your budget on those three parts. You could probably get a $300-400 GPU if you budget everything good. RAM will cost you no more than $40, and a hard drive should be no more than $100. If you want a DVD drive, those are only like, $15. I'd recommend a CPU cooler too. You don't need one, but they'll be beneficial.[/quote] the reason i want to spend that amount of money on the motherboard is that i want it to stay decent for maybe 2 years. if you want to and have the time you could give me a list of what parts you think would complement the parts i already have mentioned. however i wont reaspond for a couple of hours its getting late soo thanks for the help. Will read what you think tomorrow[/quote] You'll update your motherboard at the same time you update your processor, just because the sockets are always changing. [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/whUv]This is what I put together.[/url] Pretty much the same build as Fluffy's, but the HDD is a bit more reliable and the case is different. [Edited on 01.06.2013 7:24 PM PST]

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  • Aggressive - It sounds louder than the rest of the spectrum. Grado is famous for having "aggressive" highs, which means it overpowers the mids and lows, but the mids and lows are still there. Aggressive highs can cause fatigue, or basically headaches. Aggressive lows can overpower the other two making the sound bloated. Think of warm as something that you can fall asleep to. The AD700's are very warm pretty much all around the spectrum. They won't get you "pumped up" like some other headphones can. Other words like veiled describe how the instruments themselves complement or detract from each other. If a can is veiled, all of the instruments will sound together, more orchestral. If it is not veiled, it will sound more like a combo band where you can pick out each individual instrument. [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP Hey ben, what do you think are the best headphones for lolicore?[/quote][url=http://www.amazon.com/SR-507-Lambda-Series-Electrostatic-Earspeakers/dp/B00806YTQ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1357529003&sr=8-3&keywords=stax+headphone]Electrostatic is the only way to go.[/url] Be sure to pick up an $2000 amp too. [Edited on 01.06.2013 7:24 PM PST]

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  • Hey ben, what do you think are the best headphones for lolicore?

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  • Also a question i have been burning to ask. How can sound quality be "Aggressive" "Warm" as you said with a head set brand. Like [url=http://drawception.com/pub/panels/2012/7-20/ZGRbZG2nHS-6.png]this?[/url]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Maximo12222 What, are you not bringing your Desktop to college? And you called me lazy for a 40$ Audio mixer :([/quote]I'm bringing it, although I'll be out of my dorm a lot, and the Schiit stack is very portable.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Maximo12222 [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy Bass and trebles overpower the mids. The Senns and Hifis are more neutral headphones. The 990 is for active listening, when you want to get pumped or when watching a movie. The others are for when you want to sit back, or when you want accurate positioning while gaming. And instead of the O2/ODAC, I think I'm going to get the [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13]Schiit Magni[/url] and [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14]Modi[/url] based on [url=http://www.head-fi.org/t/642401/comparison-and-review-o2-odac-vs-magni-modi]this review[/url]. [url=http://i.imgur.com/YDDAk.jpg]It would look like this.[/url][/quote] I must ask, what is the point of getting the AMP and DAC when you have your sound card?[/quote]It's mostly for being able to use them with my laptop in college, but they also provide a different sound (more aggressive than the STX, better for rock and metal) and allow me to change the volume without having to mess with Windows because I'm lazy.[/quote] What, are you not bringing your Desktop to college? And you called me lazy for a 40$ Audio mixer :(

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  • [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/a5nT]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/a5nT/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/a5nT/benchmarks/]Benchmarks[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80623i32100]Intel Core i3-2100 3.1GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($117.98 @ SuperBiiz) [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-p8z68vlx]Asus P8Z68-V LX ATX LGA1155 Motherboard[/url] ($133.63 @ Mwave) [b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f312800cl9d4gbnq]G.Skill 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/url] ($27.99 @ Newegg) [b]Storage:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd5000aakx]Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive[/url] ($57.99 @ NCIX US) [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/sapphire-video-card-100315l]Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1GB Video Card[/url] ($149.98 @ NCIX US) [b]Case:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/apevia-case-xjpjgtbk]Apevia X-Jupiter-Jr G-Type Black ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] ($49.98 @ Newegg) [b]Power Supply:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/raidmax-power-supply-rx700ac]Raidmax 700W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply[/url] ($68.98 @ SuperBiiz) [b]Optical Drive:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-optical-drive-drw24b1stblkbas]Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer[/url] ($24.98 @ Newegg) [b]Total:[/b] $631.51 [i](Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)[/i] [i](Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-01-06 22:13 EST-0500)[/i] My build, and throw in a PCI Wireless Adapter for... around $20.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Maximo12222 [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy Bass and trebles overpower the mids. The Senns and Hifis are more neutral headphones. The 990 is for active listening, when you want to get pumped or when watching a movie. The others are for when you want to sit back, or when you want accurate positioning while gaming. And instead of the O2/ODAC, I think I'm going to get the [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13]Schiit Magni[/url] and [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14]Modi[/url] based on [url=http://www.head-fi.org/t/642401/comparison-and-review-o2-odac-vs-magni-modi]this review[/url]. [url=http://i.imgur.com/YDDAk.jpg]It would look like this.[/url][/quote] I must ask, what is the point of getting the AMP and DAC when you have your sound card?[/quote]It's mostly for being able to use them with my laptop in college, but they also provide a different sound (more aggressive than the STX, better for rock and metal) and allow me to change the volume without having to mess with Windows because I'm lazy.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy Bass and trebles overpower the mids. The Senns and Hifis are more neutral headphones. The 990 is for active listening, when you want to get pumped or when watching a movie. The others are for when you want to sit back, or when you want accurate positioning while gaming. And instead of the O2/ODAC, I think I'm going to get the [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13]Schiit Magni[/url] and [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14]Modi[/url] based on [url=http://www.head-fi.org/t/642401/comparison-and-review-o2-odac-vs-magni-modi]this review[/url]. [url=http://i.imgur.com/YDDAk.jpg]It would look like this.[/url][/quote] I must ask, what is the point of getting the AMP and DAC when you have your sound card?

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  • [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wgL6]My two cents.[/url]

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  • [quote]I would recommend putting a decent amount into the motherboard, but spending more than $150 is really unnecessary. The processor you have is fine, and get a Seasonic PSU, but don't blow all of your budget on those three parts. You could probably get a $300-400 GPU if you budget everything good. RAM will cost you no more than $40, and a hard drive should be no more than $100. If you want a DVD drive, those are only like, $15. I'd recommend a CPU cooler too. You don't need one, but they'll be beneficial.[/quote] the reason i want to spend that amount of money on the motherboard is that i want it to stay decent for maybe 2 years. if you want to and have the time you could give me a list of what parts you think would complement the parts i already have mentioned. however i wont reaspond for a couple of hours its getting late soo thanks for the help. Will read what you think tomorrow

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] HHIBZ1 [quote] This. What's your budget on the remainder of your parts?[/quote] Well i really havent decided how much i want to spend but i do have a good amount. my plan is to buy a higher end moderboard, cpu and a power supply. The rest of the components i will buy cheaper and later on upgrade. yeah btw i have about 1222 dollar but i need to save some for gas.[/quote]I would recommend putting a decent amount into the motherboard, but spending more than $150 is really unnecessary. The processor you have is fine, and get a Seasonic PSU, but don't blow all of your budget on those three parts. You could probably get a $300-400 GPU if you budget everything good. RAM will cost you no more than $40, and a hard drive should be no more than $100. If you want a DVD drive, those are only like, $15. I'd recommend a CPU cooler too. You don't need one, but they'll be beneficial.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Sand Grenade5656 Alright, I've got the SSD set up in the tray and I have all the correct cables ready, but where should I plug my HDD in? Since I am plugging my SSD into the white SATA port, should I plug my HDD into one of the black, Sata II ports? [/quote]An HDD will never reach Sata3 speeds, but it doesn't hurt to plug it into a Sata6 port. You might as well if you have a spare Sata6 plug.[/quote] Alright, because I'm still using my HDD (obviously) for most things, my SSD is just for my OS, and a bunch of games.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Sand Grenade5656 Alright, I've got the SSD set up in the tray and I have all the correct cables ready, but where should I plug my HDD in? Since I am plugging my SSD into the white SATA port, should I plug my HDD into one of the black, Sata II ports? [/quote]An HDD will never reach Sata3 speeds, but it doesn't hurt to plug it into a Sata6 port. You might as well if you have a spare Sata6 plug.

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Sand Grenade5656 [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] THE SALTY CHIP [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] Sand Grenade5656 Hello Wizards of the PC thread! So I recently got a Samsung SSD 840 series, and a new OS (Win7 64bit). I currently have windows 32 bit installed because I had it lying around at the time of when I built my computer. Could someone walk me through the complete process of installing an SSD? Keep in mind I will be installing a completely new OS on the SSD and I want to get rid of the one I am currently using. Thanks. [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/p/wbRD]Here[/url] is my current build if it helps.[/quote]Do you mean physically connecting it to the motherboard in the case, or just installing the OS on it.[/quote] Both! :)[/quote]Well, installing it is very simple. First, you put the SSD in one of the removable trays like the ones that hold the HDD and line the holes on the SSD with those on the tray to fasten it with screws (I can't remember which screws exactly, but they came with your 410 and it'll say which ones in the manual). Then once it's secure, you take a SATA cable (make sure it's SATA III or 6gbps) and plug one end into the back of your SSD and the other end into the white sata port on your motherboard (make sure it's the white one, because that one is SATA III and the others are only SATA II). Then you take a SATA power cable from your power supply and plug that into the SSD, right next to where the data cable is. Then you should be all set. And here is an [url=http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-optimization-guide-for-ssds-hdds]installation and optimization guide for your SSD.[/url][/quote] Alright, I've got the SSD set up in the tray and I have all the correct cables ready, but where should I plug my HDD in? Since I am plugging my SSD into the white SATA port, should I plug my HDD into one of the black, Sata II ports?

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  • [quote] This. What's your budget on the remainder of your parts?[/quote] Well i really havent decided how much i want to spend but i do have a good amount. my plan is to buy a higher end moderboard, cpu and a power supply. The rest of the components i will buy cheaper and later on upgrade. yeah btw i have about 1222 dollar but i need to save some for gas. [Edited on 01.06.2013 2:22 PM PST]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] PMC Fluffy The ASUS board, but it's meant for higher overclocking. Because you don't have an unlocked CPU, get the AsRock.[/quote] This. What's your budget on the remainder of your parts?

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  • Bass and trebles overpower the mids. The Senns and Hifis are more neutral headphones. The 990 is for active listening, when you want to get pumped or when watching a movie. The others are for when you want to sit back, or when you want accurate positioning while gaming. And instead of the O2/ODAC, I think I'm going to get the [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13]Schiit Magni[/url] and [url=http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14]Modi[/url] based on [url=http://www.head-fi.org/t/642401/comparison-and-review-o2-odac-vs-magni-modi]this review[/url]. [url=http://i.imgur.com/YDDAk.jpg]It would look like this.[/url] [Edited on 01.06.2013 12:28 PM PST]

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  • It's too V-shaped? What does that mean?

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  • I'm not a fan of the 990's. The frequency is too V-shaped and the highs are shrill for the price.

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  • [url=http://www.amazon.com/Beyer-Dynamic-Premium-600-Headphones/dp/B0024NK34O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1357499163&sr=1-4&keywords=beyerdynamic]Get the 600ohm DT990s[/url]

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  • [quote][b]Posted by:[/b] HHIBZ1 Ok thanks i think i will go with the ASUS board and a i5 3570k. Btw how long will these stay ``good´´ you know before i have to upgrade them to run the newer releases?[/quote]I'm still using my ASUS P8Z68-V Pro and i7 2600k from a year and a half ago, and I don't plan to upgrade for a while. Also, I'm trying to decide what my next headphone upgrade should be. Does anyone else have experience in this field? I'm comparing the [url=http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Dynamic-Professional-Stereo-Headphones/dp/B00004SY4H]Sennheiser HD600[/url] to the [url=http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMAN-HE-400-Planar-Efficiency-Headphones/dp/B007ZG32I4]HiFiMan HE-400[/url] and will be using them with an [url=http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=48]O2+ODAC[/url] stack. The Senns are more comfortable, but the HiFi's have a more fun sound and are planar magnetic. Oh, the first world problems. [Edited on 01.06.2013 10:43 AM PST]

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