Advantage II, get it.
The two main ingredients feature:
A neurotoxin to disrupt the flea's motor functions. They will starve and die because they're disabled.
A growth inhibitor to prevent larvae from growing.
This will eliminate their food source (your dog). From there, get a carpet powder to kill the eggs. Fleas will jump off your dog to lay eggs, therefore they are on your carpet. There isn't a chemical to kill eggs, you rely on something to dehydrate them. Also get a spray for your furniture, and wash any other cloth in hot water. Do [i]not[/i] rely on flea shampoos. It will kill the fleas on your dog, but it will only last a day at best considering the fleas will just jump right back on. Flea collars are not effective, and can further irritate your dog's skin.
Under prime conditions, fleas can live quite a while without food. It's important to treat your home with powders/sprays and through cleaning, otherwise they can outlast the treatment for your dog (it's a monthly treatment). Just follow the directions/safety guidelines on whatever you get to ensure you and your pet's safety while the treatments are out.
Otherwise, vacuum a lot. Vacuuming will get rid of 98% of the fleas/eggs/larvae on your floor. If you want to go crazy, put a portion of a flea collar in the vacuum bag [i]after[/i] vacuuming (if you do it during, you'll be inhaling all sorts of nasty crap) to ensure they're dead and can't come back somehow.
Sources: Doge trainer.
Side-tips: You get what you pay for. Don't go for a cheaper flea treatment for your dog. Advantage can be expensive, but it's extremely effective. Frontline is a good brand as well, but they lost their patent on Fipronil (the main ingredient), so a bunch of cheaper companies have hopped on with relatively ineffective and questionable products. I can't recommend them.
- Your dog might still be itchy for a while after being relieved of fleas. Flea bites leave scabs that cause irritations, much like mosquito bites. There are soothing sprays and such you can use.
- If you opt to not treat your dog, he/she might itch until the skin is broken and it can get infected, otherwise known as a hotspot. Get on it bro. You can provide temporary relief by bathing your dog and thoroughly combing him/her. This will flood the undercoat and drown the existing fleas. No shampoo is necessary, and be gentle.
- If you're on the fence about using chemicals on your carpet, salt will work as well. As I said, the point is to dehydrate the eggs, chemicals can't penetrate the shell. Vacuuming is extremely effective, but you might miss some spots. Fleas reproduce very quickly, so a few missed eggs will lead to a future infestation.
Consult a vet if you want more information on what you can do.
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Edited by Prototape: 1/13/2014 7:51:34 AMMore info if you're interested. This is a copy/paste from a seminar I did: [quote]Fleas Fleas are external perasites who feed off its host's blood. They can jump up to 7 inches high, or 13 inches horizontally. Adult Fleas have to feed in order to reproduce. Fleas can live to about a year, and in some cases, more. Female Fleas can lay over 5000 eggs in their life. Without a food source, a flea's lifespan dramatically decreases. Life-cycle The life-cycle of the flea is compromised of four life-stages: Egg Larva Pupa Adult Eggs are the most difficult stage to remove. There is no chemical that can kill them on contact. The best way to get rid of them is to invest in a powder that dehydrates them, and vacuum your carpets constantly. The Larva will feed on organic materials like insects/feces for roughly a couple of weeks until they can cocoon. After they cocoon, it's another couple of weeks until they hatch into an adult. Once an adult, the flea is ready to look for a host to attach onto. Host/Flea Relationship Once a flea finds a host (in this case, your pet), it will start to feed on your pet's blood. Flea bites will cause irritation and inflammation similar to a mosquito bite. These spots can last several weeks. Diseases: Some dogs are allergic to the flea's saliva. Dog will exhibit extreme scratching, licking, or biting around the tail, groin, or backside. Scabs or bumps may start to show, and in extreme cases, your dog will rip out their own hair until the area in question is naked. If untreated, these areas can become infected. If you see your pet exhibiting these behaviors, take them to a veterinarian for a proper diagnosis. Medication is needed for treatment. Fleas can transmit tapeworms if your dog happens to swallow an infected flea. Tapeworms will hook onto your dog's intestine and absorb nutrients your dog is taking in. Tapeworms are an internal parasite, and can pose a health risk to your pet. They can cause nutritional deficiency and weight loss. Sometimes tapeworms can be seen in your dog's stool. If you think your dog may have a tapeworm, bring him/her to a vet along with a stool sample for confirmation. If your dog is infected, it can be treated with medication. Treatments What should you do if your pet becomes a host to fleas? There are a lot of products out there that get rid of fleas, in fact, there may be too many. Initial investigation into pest prevention products can be overwhelming, so we'll take a look at different products and methods that exist on the market today. Common active ingredients in popular treatments: Lufenuron – A pesticide that denies fleas the ability to produce chitin. Without chitin, a flea larvae cannot develop the exoskeleton needed to become an adult. Pyriopoxyfen (otherwise listed as 'Nylar') – Acts as a growth inhibitor. This chemical prevents larvae from developing into adults, thus eliminating the actual fleas. It doesn't necessarily kill them on the spot, but if they can't grow, they can't feed on your pet. Methroprene – Like Nylar, Methroprene prevents flea larvae from developing into adults. This chemical is actually used in meat, milk, mushrooms, peanuts, and other food products. It is safe. These three chemicals don't necessarily kill fleas, they merely prevent the possibility of a future adult flea infestation. Some of the chemicals found below are not safe for cats. It is extremely important that you check the packaging of each individual prevention product that you purchase if you have cats in your home. Cat's can't metabolize the chemicals safely, which poses a big health risk. Fipronil (Cat safe) – Disrupts the nervous system of the flea. Effects may be slow, but they are very effective. Usually found in topical medications. Imidacloprid (cat safe) – Neurotoxin like Fipronil. Permethrin (unsafe for cats) – Neurotoxin. If your pet has fleas, bathing your dog using a flea shampoo and flea comb can be effective. Fleas can eventually drown, but they can hide in your pets undercoat where pockets of oxygen exist. Brushing and combing will eliminate these air-pockets, and can push the shampoo deeper into your pet's coat. It is important to remember that this isn't really a cure. Your dog is still susceptible to fleas after bathing, so investment in prevention products is advised. Vacuuming, vacuuming, vacuuming – Vacuuming catches around 96% of adult fleas. If your house is infested with fleas, vacuuming will be your best friend. Aside from that, washing your clothes in hot water can kill fleas existing on them. While we're talking about vacuuming, let's talk about flea collars. Flea collars were great for their time, but in contrast to other products out there, they pale in comparison. They are, however, still useful. After vacuuming, take a flea collar and cut it into pieces (wearing gloves is advised), and put a few pieces in the vacuum bag, then seal it. Let it sit for a while, then dispose of the bag. This ensures that the fleas have been killed and are no longer a threat. Do not vacuum with a flea collar in the vacuum bag. Vacuums blow air while they are being operated. If there is a flea collar in the bag while you're vacuuming, you will be exposing yourself and your pet to harmful vapors. Only use a flea collar when your vacuum is no longer being operated, and the bag is separated from the vacuum. You can place the remaining bits of the flea collar in a ziploc bag for future use. Example Products: Bio Spot Carpet Powder – a powder using Nylar to prevent eggs and larvae from growing into adults. Packaging also advertises Linalool, which has no effect on fleas. It is merely a component in the product that makes your carpet smell nice. Adams Home Flea and Tick Spray – A spray for your home using Methoprene and Permethrin. Do not use in a home with cats, as permethrin is harmful to them. Frontline – A topical medication using Fipronil, a neurotoxin. While Frontline was the first to carry fipronlil, they have since lost their patent on the chemical. Other products now exist that use the same ingredient, such as Sentry. Advantage – Main active ingredient is Imidacloprid, a neurotoxin. Safe for cats and dogs, however, it is important that you buy species specific treatments. K9 Advantix II – A topical medication containing Nylar and Permethrin. Dogs can safely metabolize Permethrin, while cats can not. You run the unecessary risk of exposing your cat to harmful chemicals by using K9 Advantix II around them, Advantage is a safer alternative. Topical products kill and prevent future infestations. It is important to keep up with a monthly dosage to avoid ever having to deal with fleas. Different products suit different needs for each pet owner. If you are unsure of which product to go with, a pet store associate can help you. Otherwise, you can always consult your veterinarian to find out which one would be best for your pet. [/quote]
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This helps, thanks.
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No problem. Most pet store employees know a fair amount of this stuff as well, so they can help you find what you need.